Trip Report

Trip Report April 5 to 8, #64/#14/#15/#67

#64 pulling into Belleville

Dad and I did an almost annual east coast train trip from 1989 to 2005. Since then have only been east once in 2008 and wanted to both attempt to restart the tradition and see what has changed.

My intention was to document all the details as other trip reports do. Boarding #64 in Belleville, I noted P42 #902 and our car LRC business class 3473 and intended to get the rest of the consist in Montreal. That plan went out the window with the ice storm and delays. Interestingly enough, Paul and I had never travelled by train together. Martinis on Equity don't count. Paul would take the train between TO and Belleville on occasion and I had my trips with dad. This would be a first. The plan was just a quick trip down and back with an evening pub crawl and a Halifax walkabout the next morning.

Cocktail and snack onboard #64

We booked the dogs in for boarding and left enough food and water for the cats and chickens. Had arranged a ride to the station in Belleville.Upon boarding, we were served a drink with a snack mix and offered lunch choices, I chose the Rigatoni pasta and Paul got the cold chicken salad platter. No problems through Brockville but it was obvious that the rain that had been falling all day and lightly icing the trees, was now much thicker and increasing with the north east travel. Between Brockville and Cornwall, there was a loud bang from under the coach followed by many smaller bangs and wood chips and chunks flying past the windows. The train came to halt and the service manager announced we had hit a tree and the engine crew was going to inspect the train. We stopped for about 20 minutes and then were own our way again. Now late, I was thinking about our shortening layover time in Montreal, no problem at this point. After stopping at Cornwall, we continued slowly with leaning trees and branches making bang-bang-bang sounds while bouncing off and brushing down the sides and windows of the train. In Coteau, we came to a stop with freight trains on either side. The service manager announced that power lines were down across the track and we were awaiting Hydro Quebec. A couple of hours went by, the sun set and I wondered about our connection to #14. Other passengers around us started complaining of missed bus connections and messaging people on our situation. Fortunately, wine continued to be served.

Rigatoni on #64

The service manager announced the wires had been cleared but there were fallen trees on the tracks and it would be a while longer. Another hour and it was announced trees were continuing to fall and crews were trying to keep up. While fearing that our Halifax trip was going to end that night in Montreal, it was announced that #14 was being held as there were 44 passengers on #64 transferring as well as many more on the train from Ottawa that was stuck just ahead of us in Coteau. By then #66 was not far behind us and we heard that all remaining corridor trains had been cancelled. Now around 10 pm, we finally started moving and noticed that electricity was mostly out the rest of the way into Montreal. We crawled through level crossings and noted the Hyrail trucks and crews at the crossings, likely the tree cutters but also likely protecting the crossings too. Stopping in Dorval, the passengers that did get off were in complete darkness. Finally got into Montreal around 11:30 pm.

Icestorm

I made no attempt to get the rest of our consist and we simply headed up the escalator, over one platform and back down to the Ocean. Finally on board in room 2 of Ren sleeper 7522. Heather was our attendant and she had put the beds down. We attempted to put them up (not 100% successfully) just so we could stow our stuff and relax for a bit. Heather came by and fixed our bed mistakes. Now 5 hours late, #14 headed out. The expectation of leaving Montreal in daylight, viewing Victoria Bridge, cocktails followed by dinner in the dining car were long gone. Heather said sandwiches were available to us in the service car but we were pretty frazzled by then and not hungry. We openened our cooler bag and cracked a pint, a few times, finally putting the beds back down and crashing about 2 am. Waking about around 7 am, I realized with had only just passed Trois Pistoles and were still 5 hours late. I went up to the diner for some take out coffees and we went for breakfast around Mont Joli (49 degrees north lattitude), still on the south shore of the St. Lawrence River. I had the Western Omelette and Paul just had some toast. Still deep snow in Quebec and northern New Brunswick. The train turns south and into the Matapedia RiverValley, not usually seen in daylight on the train, and then into New Brunswick.

Breakfast menu

Northern New Brunswick along Baie de Chaleur

Looking more out to the Gulf of St Lawrence

Lunch was called around Jacquet River. I had the Roasted Veggies with Mesclum Mix, Goat Cheese and Balsamic Reduction. Not sure what Paul had. We ended spending a good portion of the afternoon riding in the dining car, sipping wine or beer and enjoying the panoramic view and the crew didn't seem to mind us hanging out. Crossed the very frozen Miramichi River. The train, I heard was completely sold out and every coach seat, Ren bedroom and, what I heard, all forward facing HEP1 rooms. Paul and I did an end to end walkthrough of the train though access was blocked at points. There was a large group of Amish/Mennonite on board in coach, heard they were headed for an Easter retreat in PEI. 

Roasted Veggies on Mesclun Mix with Goat Cheese and Balsamic Reduction

A Rennaisance room

Crossing the Miramichi River

Lounges were busy

Continuing south, the snow was pretty much gone by Moncton (46 degrees north lattitude).

The train was not making up any lateness and I knew we would not be in Halifax till almost 11 pm. In Halifax, I had noted where, and hours of operation, we could replenish our onboard drink supply as all stores would closed on Good Friday. Realizing that in no way would that happen now, I had to come up with a Plan B. Knowing there is a liquor store near the station in Moncton and there is a 15 minute stop for refuelling the locomotives. Getting off in Moncton, Heather warned me that the train would not wait but I made the dash across the parking lot and made it back with time to spare!

Rennaissance Dining car

After Moncton, the sun began to set, no dining car dinner was offered, just sandwiches, bananas and chocolate bars. We arrived in Halifax around 11pm (44-1/2 degrees north lattitude, same as Tweed). No cabs to be seen and it was about a 15-20 minute walk to the Barrington Hotel, one that I had chosen due to its proximity to the pubs and Historic Properties. After checking in, we headed for the last place on our pub crawl list, the Lower Deck in the Historic Properties, ordered a beer, watched the band play their last 3 songs, by then last call had been made, we finished our beer and headed back to the hotel. I had noted Maxwell's Plum was open later but we were tired.

Historic Properties

The Lower Deck Pub

Next morning, we were coffeed and out by 9 am, leaving our stuff in the room and we did a zig zag through the downtown, up past the Clock Tower, up the hill to the Citadel. BTW, everything in Halifax is either uphill or downhill, not much else. Downhill from the Citadel to the Public Gardens, by now the warm sunshine was noticeable, a far cry from the ice storm and the snow and ice of northern New Brunswick. Sat for a few minutes on a bench by the pond then made our way back down Spring Garden Rd to Barrington and back to the hotel, checked out, now close to 11 am. Carrying our stuff, we headed down to the waterfront and along the boardwalk. Noting a restaurant patio was just opening up for 11:30, we ordered a pint, Paul had an oyster, which he liked and at, 12:30, headed the last 3 blocks to the station.

Halifax downtown from Citadel

Clock Tower

Citadel

Public Gardens

Facade being saved

Historic Properties

SS Acadia

Halifax Waterfront

Sea Smoke Restaurant

Paul has an oyster

Boarding in Halifax, we were taken out to our sleeping car in a golf cart. On #15, it was the same train we came down on, just running in the reverse direction and we were in 8221 "Chateau Radisson", in Bedroom D (was booked in B but some problem with the room as told by attendant Leanne). Left the station at 1:00 pm, got about 500 ft and stopped. Some incident involving the police and that something was going on near or on the tracks. Sat for about 45 minutes, uh oh, here we go again. Problem resolved, never did find out story and we were off again. We were given wristbands to identify us as sleeping car passengers to the dining car crew as we had to pass through the coaches to the dining car and coach passengers don't get dining car meals. Coming from the other end of train, all passengers were sleeping car passengers and there was no need for the wristband. Lunch was served shortly after. I had the Rigatoni pasta again and Paul had the Salmon. We arrived in Moncton about one hour late, I stepped off to have a look at the front end of the train and noticed HEP1 diner 8412 "Kent". Getting back on board, I asked the crew why it was there and was told it had just been rebuilt and was being tested. I asked for a tour but was told it was off limits as there was sensitive monitoring equipment on board.

Leaving Halifax, looking at Bedford Basin

Much quieter on the return trip than going down. On #14 going down, both service car kitchens were operating. #15 had just one service car kitchen operating and half the dining car being used. In both directions, lounges were busy. Around Rogersville, dinner was called. I had completely stopped taking pictures of the menu and food. I had Pot Roast and Potatoes, Paul just had the soup and his dinner roll. After dinner we, hung out in the lounge. Approaching Miramichi, we heard there was passenger in the Ren sleeper in medical distress due to a nut allergy. I think it was implied that they had been unknowingly served nuts in their dinner. At Miramichi, paramedics were waiting and the train stopped for about 45 minutes. In the end, the passenger declined being removed from the train and we continued. I brought my sleeping car berth key and either annoyed or impressed Leanne by putting our beds down.

Paul's Salmon

Rigatoni ala Vodka Sauce

Folly Lake in the Cobequid Mountains

In Moncton

Service area for Lounge/Take out for coach

Another view of Lounge

Waking up in the morning sometime after Riviere du Loup, grabbed coffees, passed the Bombardier/Alstom factory in La Pocatiere, watched carefully for the bridge in Montmagny, the site of the head on collision in 1942 in dad's story. Crossing into Ste Foy is something new since my last trips as the train stayed on the south shore stopping at Charny. Anyway, crossing the infamous Quebec Bridge is a highlight. While at Ste Foy, I went for breakfast and Paul had another coffee. Breakfast was bacon and eggs. We were still running about 90 minutes late. Back out on the main line, #15 made up 15 minutes by Montreal. My GPS speedometer app said we hit 154.4 km/h (96 mph) twice, first around Montmagny and again around St Hyacinth. Coming into Montreal we took the Victoria Bridge detour around the lock as there was a freighter heading upstream. Being 75 minutes late, it had been announced that passengers booked on #65 to Toronto would be rebooked on #67 as #65 would not be waiting. I booked us on #67 anyway just to have the slush time.

Quebec in the early morning by Riviere do Loup

Crossing the Riviere du Sud in Montmangny

Chaudiere River near Charny

Crossing the St Lawrence on the Quebec Bridge

Mountain near Montreal (Mont St Hilaire?)

We had about 2 hours in Montreal and went to the Deli Planet, a bar/restaurant right off the concourse in Central Station. Were just in coach on #67 and a normal run to Belleville instead of our 10 hours on #64 going down. #67 was about 15 minutes late into Belleville as the train stopped several times due to an electrical issue. It appeared that the HEP generator kept kicking out. Never did note anything about our consist on #67 Did hit 162.6 km/h (101 mph) around Morrisburg. Our ride picked us up, we had left the car at his place in Tweed and then picked dogs up at the doggie daycare. Dogs had a blast at daycare and made new friends. Have booked them in at daycare monthly for socialization and play time. We were all tired getting home, Paul and I were sore from all the hills and long walk in Halifax, house had chilled to just 7C, got woodstoves going.

Deli Planet

Old swing bridge over Lachine Canal, site of one of Buster Keaton's stunts in 1965's The Railrodder 

Some end notes:
Comparing Ren vs HEP1, Ren cars ride better, the bathroom is more spacious and has tables. HEP1 has more room space, better space to put bags and coats but the only table space is the flap over the sink, which has to cleared off if using sink. If we had asked for the optional table, it would have blocked access to the toilet annex. 8221 "Chateau Radisson" is looking tired with peeling wallpaper and scuffs everywhere still featuring it's 30 year old decor. Food and service was excellent on all trains. There were some bummer moments as in missing the pub crawl. Another thing I wanted to try in Halifax is the fried pepperoni, do it at home but the Nova Scotia version is supposed to be the ultimate. Halifax has changed a lot with all the waterfront condos, boardwalk and waterfront pubs and restaurants. The downtown core of heritage storefronts have been maintained but most are just a facade now with new highrises built inside. Montreal downtown has changed a lot too with so many new highrises around the tracks.

Consist of #14 and #15 (reversed)
6413 F40
6408 F40
7009 Ren baggage
70108 Ren accessible coach
7519 Ren sleeper
7522 Ren sleeper
7520 Ren sleeper
79515 Ren accessible sleeper
7312 Ren service car
7402 Ren dining car
7309 Ren service car
7231 Ren coach
7600 Ren transition car
8124 HEP 1 coach
8223 Chateau Rigaud HEP1 sleeper
8221 Chateau Radisson HEP1 sleeper
8220 Chateau Papineau HEP1 sleeper (access blocked maybe crew car)
8412 Kent HEP 1 diner (on trials)
8615 HEP1 baggage